London fashion week made off to a furry start with Julien MacDonald opening the week with a flamboyant and ultra glamorous collection. Not one to shy away from all things controversial, the Welsh-born designer showed printed rabbit fur coats, jewel-encrusted mink jackets, fox drapes and plush sables.

London may not normally be the place to find so much fur (try Moscow, instead, where MacDonald sells 70 per cent of his order book) and many in the audience were shocked by its abundance on the catwalk. Thankfully his eveningwear of fluted cocktrail dresses, cob-web knits and cardigan-coat for evening made the show more harmonious.

Sinha-Stanic, who were dubbed ‘the one to watch,’ put on a triumphant first catwalk show. The St Martins-trained duo showed a sophisticated and polished collection of beautifully draped and fitted clothes in classic cream and tonal hues. Luxury group AEFFE, who also manufacture Alberta Ferretti and Moschino, know a winner when they see one and yesterday’s show held all the promise of staying power.

Basso & Brooke, who also showed their second catwalk collection in London after winning Fashion Fringe last season, put on a powerful collection of print and imaginative cut. Their penchant for exotic and erotic prints mix symbolism and art-nouveau across flamboyant and dramatic silhouettes. Also under contract with AEFFE, they should have no production worries for next season, and are currently stocked at Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Harrods.

Designers showing at the exhibition include Jonathan Saunders, Madeleine Press, Sara Berman, Emma Cook, Jens Laugesen, Jenny Packham, Lyle & Scott and PPQ. The Moet & Chandon champagne reception went down a treat, and international buyers seemed to have put London back on the fashion map despite the weakened dollar and soaring pound.